Donner's Castle Pass via PCT Snowshoeing

 

Difficulty: Strenuous.  Difficult to follow trail.  Undermelt hazards.  Numerous creek crossings of varying difficulty.  Could be more fun as an overnighter.  Fires are allowed during winter.
Length:  Ours was a 9.3 mile loop.
Directions and details:  Take I-80 to the Boreal exit west of Donner and east of Kingvale.  South of the exit make a left.  Stop at the hotel for a parking permit.  Your regular state park pass does not apply. The hotel has some vending machines with snacks. It is snowplowed in the event of snowy weather and has a nice restroom with vault toilets.  The kids can build snowmen and tabogan there.  Great places for snowball fights, too!  During the regular hiking season, there is an interpretive loop trail.

Taken by Peachy from Castle Pass looking south.

This was my second time out snowshoeing in my new MSRs made for virtually every condition.   You may remember that we each broke one of our trekking poles on our last trip so I had one of each set this time.  I ordered the new ones but they hadn't arrived so "Make do" as grandma used to say.  This time the sun was on our side rather than stormy weather, and I had mapped out a plan for a longer trail.  It seemed like a reasonable day's hike at 1 mile an hour average, expecting about 7+ miles and time for a meal. We used the sno park paid parking last week so we knew the ropes and were able to waste less time and get out on the trail.  (Pay at the hotel as you enter the parking area.  There are vending machines there, too.) Near the trailhead that is down the road in the loop is a vault toilet. Use the trailhead at the billboard sign turning north instead of south at the junction.  I was excited because our last trip was so much fun despite bad bad weather; this day promised to be stellar!

Our first creek crossing was wide and frozen.  We detoured a bit for a safer route. 
(Funny note!  Those are my mismatched poles!)  Those marks in the tree are trail markers.

The snow was sparkling, the weather was crisp but not bone chilling.  The snow was icy but I thought with sun it would soften up through the day.  (Guess again).


This widow maker is about to fall and is right on the trailside.

These photos are for fun and to show you to see what the trail was like:

Unlike the perfect dry powder we had last time, more effort was required to walk on this crunchy  snow and I found myself tempted to take the snowshoes off and just hike in my snow boots.  There were bootprints to follow and not much sinking, and I've done it before!  From the trailhead we made our way easily to the tunnel snown above that goes north under I-80 for the PCT.

You can see the trail to the left.

Once we crossed the highway it took some effort to stay on the trail because no one had been on it this far back  The sports store said lots of people were here yesterday so we expected broken trail all the way. 



There are few markers along the way and the GPS was a frequent help.

We wound through the woods and conquered one undocumented creek crossing after another.

I like those, but in the deep, crusty, unbroken snow there may or may not be a faint look of a trail buried. At the creeks we faced steep banks of one to three feet, the water (sometimes a foot deep) and the other bank would be as much or more of a drop off. 

The water running under the snow made the possibility of the bank breaking
into the creek, taking the hikers with it, an unpleasant thought. 
Here we went downstream to cross.

Troopers that we are, we kept going and with umpteen detours
for "safer" passage, we would leave and refind the trail. 

One of the few PCT markers, and imagine, no bicycles!

After several miles of detouring, it seemed like the GPS predicted the same distance to our destination which was confusing because it continued showing our tracks as progressing right along. 

In so much shade we had to stop and get me some layers, but we were dry and still happily challenged.  No conversation was possible unless we stopped because the crunching of the snow under our snowshoes was so loud we couldn't hear each other!  No kidding!

Finally we reached an intersection of trail junctions and had to choose that all go northerly, just more east to more west.  None was the obviously correct route and GPS wasn't a help at this time. Upward to the most northeastern direction was our choice. My quads, calves and even the tops of my feet were so achy, my usual penchant for going uphill had vanished.  I just wanted to stop and heat water and eat. 

We were finally heading up out of the woods and getting some distant views.

Peachy Hiker taking a rest!

At the top we were on a wide open ridge with breathtaking views all the way around!  We were buffeted by extreme winds that actually took me and another hiker completely off of our feet, in snowshoes, and threw us to the ground - me twice!  First time in my life!

The ski runs to the southeast.

Castle Pass to Castle Peak, and by our shadows you can see the sun is falling in the west.

The GPS showed us on another ridge to the north!  It wouldn't move either so clearly it had lost function.  Now getting later in the day, and being tired, we knew we faced a headlamp snowshoe back to the parking in possibly more unbroken and invisible trail. 

Achy and sore, but invigorated by the fantastic views, we headed downhill to the west southwest.  It was like a freeway.  Snowshoers, a snowmobile, cross country skiers, and hikers had made it so much easier by packing the snow and making the trail clear, plus it was all downhill.  How often do you hear me being glad about going downhill, but I was rapturous! 

Our whole hike totaled 9+ miles (we expected 7) and we did end up using headlamps, but only at the end and not a concern. 

Advisory:
The PCT wound through the woods and if you are experienced at finding your way in snow without anything but a map and compass, this route was untouched and had everything the backcountry offers. 

We had fun crossing creeks and identifying animal prints in the snow. If it were powder I would have been more thrilled!  At the end of the day I had sore muscles and an enormous sense of accomplishment.  Honestly I am not as sore from this hike as the last snow trek.  Our photos are prettier without the stormy grey images we got last time, too.  The views made it tempting to stay on Castle Pass for sunset and if I were familiar with the trail back, I would have.  The GPS failed twice on the trip so I posted our tracks but suggest searching for additional tracks to Castle Pass, PCT, and Peter Grubb Hut. Our map is shown below.  I drew in the places the GPS didn't record.  A handful of people have GPS tracks posted of hikes in this area, but be aware that in the snow, the trail is virtually undetectable in many places.

HAPPY TRAILS and as usual, remember to take plenty of water, snacks and food, layers for warmth and a first aid / safety kit.  I always say take a light source and way to start a fire.

Trails by Locations
Peachyhiker's GPS Tracks
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If you appreciate our state parks (and sno parks), consider this letter I received and join in!  With membership you get a parking pass and other amenities, plus help keep our parks all open.
Dear Reader,
Throughout 2012, our parks faced budget cuts, development threats and more. And next year's budget battle will be challenging.
The good news is you can double your impact with your tax-deductible gift today, which will be matched dollar-for-dollar!
That means your contribution of $75 or even $150 to California State Parks Foundation will go twice as far. But time is quickly running out – as this match only lasts until midnight on December 31st!
Your support has never been more important! We nearly lost 70 of our state parks this year. But it would have been a lot worse without supporters like you.
Stand with us and stand for parks today by making your tax-deductible, year-end contribution to the California State Parks Foundation.
Don’t lose any time! There are just a few weeks left for your support to do twice as much for our state parks! So please, double your gift – and your impact – before the clock runs out at midnight on December 31st.
Thank you again for your continued support this year and in the year to come.

Sincerely,
Elizabeth Goldstein
CSPF President and fellow supporter

Updated 12-14-12

July 2018 updates Grouse Ridge, Donner Area

*If you double click on a photo you can view all of the photos enlarged.  At the bottom of this article I am including a map, an elevation profile from my Garmin GPS and a Wikiloc link.  Some of my hike to the lakes and ponds shown is off trail.

Sunset my first night there.

Distance: can be as little as one mile (to Milk Lake) and can go for many miles over many days.
Difficulty:  Easy to difficult, according to your choice.  I would be comfortable taking an outdoorsy child who can hike at least 1/2 mile in and then out. They would enjoy the lakes. It really is not too steep for any length of time.  There were some tree falls to climb over and strollers are out of the question.
Driving Directions:  Get onto Highway 20 West from Highway 80 west of Donner.  Turn right onto Bowman Lake Road, cross the South Fork Yuba River and keep going until you see the sign for Grouse Ridge.  Turn right on the forest road that turns to a dirt and gravel road immediately The road had some work done on it so should be in good condition for a dirt road, accessible by car.  6 miles but worth it! July 2018 the road was in good condition, and I drove in my sedan.
You'll arrive at a fork that points to the right for camping with a well kept vault toilet in an actual structure or the fork to the left that leads to a parking area for the trailhead.  No running water is available.  You can hike a half mile to Downey or Milk Lake or just bring bottled water for camping.
Notes:  The area is being renovated so by the time you read this and get there the road will be in better condition.  The campground has picnic tables, fire pits, and some nice flat tent areas. Check on hunting season dates before you go.  (Deer hunting in the fall).
Weather: forecast here

Amusing.  Not much better than the road. July 2018 the trailhead sign is repaired.

 At the top of this 1/2 mile road, closed to vehicles,  is the Grouse Ridge Lookout.  It is a shady and pleasant climb to the fading structure.  The road is shown on the map below.

Although it is weathered and boarded up you can still climb the stairs and look inside the empty space that used to be manned by staff.  I braved the stairs for the spectacular views but the wind was pushing me off balance enough to scare me from venturing around to the other side.  It's pretty rickety and you go at your own risk.

The outhouse was hard to capture since it virtually hangs over air!  Doesn't that add a whole new meaning to "outhouse"?

If you didn't have to "go" before you got to this outhouse you would have to go once inside. And can you imagine having to go in a violent storm?  But you can appreciate the views!  I had to kneel down for photos because of jarring wind gusts.  It was frightening to be so close to nothing but air space to fall into and I doubt one would walk away from a mishap like that.  When do you ever hear me so unnerved by such wonders? There is a hand rail for good reason.  My son and I laughed about having to wear rappelling gear to use the restroom!

I am barely standing on another precipice in threatening wind gusts to get his view for you from under the lookout deck.  It's worth the hike.  Every direction is something different geologically.  Beautiful and fascinating.

 An ancient dead tree (nicknamed a widow maker) stands in stark contrast to sections of forest untouched by the ravages of fire.

But never park, camp, stand, or sit within the reaches of widow makers.  Some hiker came back tired and ready to go, I'm sure.  Their truck met up with a widow maker!  Beware.  This is the best cautionary evidence I've photographed yet! July 2018: the truck was removed.

The following photos were taken along the path heading east along Glacier Lake Trail.  Within a short distance there are lakes, ponds, meadows, pine forest, willows, and granite bowls and outcroppings.  I enjoyed plenty of shade and the trail is in good condition.  Off trail you bushwhack but get to see a variety of landscapes and enjoy a true wilderness experience. 

The size of a pencil eraser, one of countless flowers in bloom right now.

The cattle eyed me suspiciously and began calling to each other and clanging their bells!

 Not sure of possible bacteria, I did purify water from these sources.

From the Grouse Ridge Trailhead, you can also head northwest toward Crooked Lakes Trail on Round Lake Trail, or north toward Shotgun and other basin lakes.  The area is one of my favorites and worth a dusty, difficult drive.  The trails are actually pretty easy and in a short distance you can day hike or backpack camp. You'll encounter few if any groups, or occasional hikers even if you see quite a few vehicles parked at the trailheads into the area. Once I did happen back there when some travel company was taking tourists backpacking.  Weekenders will find more people than those who can go on weekdays. There are so many directions to go and so many places to hang out.
GPS link, click here.

You can print the map and it is a handy pocket size to keep with you on the trail.

Carr Feeley Trailhead and Backpackers Camp will give you more information about the area and another map of trails northwest of the Grouse Ridge. From there you use the Twin Lakes Trail or Round Lake Trail.
Crooked Lakes Trail Survivor Night describes an unexpected storm, hiking hazards and solutions. A true account with a happy ending.

Peachy Hiker's Table of Contents
Thank you for stopping by and Happy Trails!

Road conditions updated 5-13-2014
Updated July 018: map note, trailhead sign, removal of truck, added weather link,and current road conditions.

Lyons Creek Trail Fun & Hazards in Early Spring

 
17 photos are included. If you click on one, the photos can be viewed enlarged.

For a report done June 2014 see Lyons Creek Trail.
Elevation: we began at 6721 feet, and Sylvia Lake was 8200

feet, still frozen and surrounded by snow.

Distance: It is reported as 4.6 miles each way, but be reminded you'll

go a bit further trying to route yourself around dangerous snow banks. 

Notes:  Parking is available, but no bathrooms or porta-potties.

The road up was clear of snow to the Lyon Creek TH free parking. The Pacific Ranger Station, off of Highway 50 on the way to the Wrights Lake and Ice House Road, provides backpacking

wilderness permits and some excellent assistance planning your hike.

Driving Directions: 

Take Wrights (Lake) Road north off of Highway 50 at Kyburz.  The Wrights Lake Road will be between tract 36 and tract 39 along Highway 50.

Follow the signs to Lyons Creek Trailhead. If you reach the Bloodsucker Trail parking, you have gone too far.

 The actual Lyons Creek Trail is not visible at this time, and most people hiked following footprints in the snow and intermittently, the muck (sticky, boggy ground).  My boots would sink in those areas and had to be Pulled Out!  Waterproof boots are better, safer, more functional, than all the tennis shoes and sandals I saw people leave the parking lot wearing.  It is hard not to walk in and through streams of runoff, freezing your toes!  Honestly, one hiker came back from Lake Sylvia with signs of hypothermia: tingling, redness and numbing of their toes. The snow softens during the day with this nice weather so your feet will be ankle deep in the cold.

 The weather is as perfect as heaven would have it.  The views are excellent.

Here are some of the photos of my hike from the parking:

The trail teases one in with solid ground and a regular hiking tread mix of rock, dirt, and some vegetation sprouting.

The views of the mountain tops sprinkled with snow were barely visible through the trees.  On the down side, these wet and boggy areas are swarming with tiny black bugs who get in your nose and mouth and maybe more!  Breath with your mouth closed!

Groupings of many types of wildflowers were scattered along the way.  Honestly, with my backpack, I only stopped for a few since they were so low to the ground and my pack felt pretty heavy!

Much of the trail had become gutters for the runoff, streams to walk in, and this spot was a small dilemma....which creek was the path?  I crossed straight ahead from this view and it turned out to be the right creek to follow!  As I said, be ready to get your feet wet!

My excitement grew while the mountains became more visible through the trees.  The trail is about a 10 mile round trip, more or less depending on how much detouring you have to find, and if you visit more than one lake.

My boulder-hopping-self felt like a child just before a party!  Anticipation!

I stopped for a rest beside the creek because I could hear the rushing sound of the current pushing its way through the narrow places.

Does ears were breaking ground anywhere not blanketed in snow or rushing with streams of runoff.  Grasses and wildflowers were in abundance, and while you might think it a great place for a picnic, if you walked there it was just a muddy mess full of bugs. 

This is one of the sections of "trail" developed by the numbers of people out that day.  The parking lot had been full, mostly for day hikers.  We only saw two sets of backpackers.  With packs, the soft snow was similar to our previous snow hike, like walking in dry sand with a backpack.  Barefoot. It is a workout!

Lyons Creek was rushing and I personally would not cross it.  The water flow was unbelievable, especially in narrow areas.

 The trail was often lined with various sizes of smaller rocks.  I enjoyed that but if you have feet and/or ankle problems, it may wear on you.  Take your support gear and be prepared.  Again, hiking poles can help your knees and ankles, along with good boots made for this type of ground.

The elevation we began at was 6721, and Sylvia Lake was 8200 
feet and still frozen and surrounded by snow. It is reported 
as 4.6 miles each way, but be reminded you'll 
go a bit further trying to route yourself around dangerous snow 
banks.  Parking is available, but no bathrooms or porta-potties.  
The road up was clear of snow to the Lyon Creek TH free 
parking.  The Pacific Ranger Station, off of Highway 50 on the 
way to the Wrights Lake and Ice House Road, provides backpacking
wilderness permits and some excellent assistance planning your hike.


The Fine Print: Information about safe snow hiking:
I have enough concerns about the hike to caution hikers about the snow and trail conditions before anything. The photos above illustrate what "under-melt" hazards really are. The snow, especially around rocks and trees, is melting faster than the exposed surfaces. The water runoff from melting snow all around is running in streams, some obvious and rushing, others just large flat areas of wet water flowing over the saturated ground surface. It is also melting the snow where isn't visible. Pockets, even caverns, of air and water are created under the mounds and blankets of snow being used as "the trail".
One adult male, with a fully loaded backpack, fell into the snow hip deep due to the caverns of air that are not visible under drifts that look deep and stable. He also had one instance when he fell through and could not touch ground. He had to figure out how to get out of that predicament and did not want to lose his backpack (although he admitted considering it after several of these cave ins!). He ended up working to throw his body weight downhill (backwards) to leverage the weight of the backpack in his own favor and pull him out of the hollow. Fortunately for him, that worked!
Another male day hiker had the same problems with cave ins of snow, especially as the snow got deeper in higher elevation. Another male hiker had to turn back because the soft snow and rocky trail were hard on an old knee injury. Sometimes I saw the remnants of cave ins, one RIGHT next to all the footprints, which suggested to me that people were ignoring the hazards and still walking over the thin areas.
Another thing to look out for are tree falls under the snow. The branches themselves created air hollows where the snow could not pack in as heavily, and created a greater likelihood of injuring the hiker who might step there believing they can land on a branch or something so they can keep going rather than reroute, perhaps finding open ground or more stable snow.
I saw more people than I counted, many wore shorts, tank tops, tennis shoes or even sandals.   From personal experience with unpredictable weather and events in mountainous areas, no one should go without first aid and survival basics, particularly appropriate layers of clothing.
My advice and urging are to wear boots, long sleeves and pants, use hiking poles to test the snow, to use to support your weight, and at times assist you if you break through. Watch your steps. and choose your paths carefully. Look for the caverns or hollows under the snow, and avoid rocks and boulders protruding but surrounded by snow, as they have those hollow hazards too from the heat they contain that melts the snow faster than general conditions.
I fell in less than knee deep several times as the snow softened, and as much as possible tried to go around the snow. I loved my waterproof boots, warm hiking socks, and gaiters! Take first aid and snacks, and carry out your trash. Take a camera!
Please use caution and have fun!!!

For more hikes check Peachy's Trails by Location

with mileage and difficulty ratings, and

these Desolation Wilderness Trails:

·         Umpa Lake and Enchanted Pools in Desolation	6.8+	Strenuous
·         Tahoe Rim Trail	165
·         Lyons Creek Trail to Lake Sylvia	9.2	Strenuous
·         Lyons Lake in Desolation Wilderness	10+	Strenuous
·         Twin Lakes Trail to Island Lake in Desolation Wilderness	7.95	Strenuous
·         Lyon Creek Trail and Snow Hazards	9.2	Strenuous
·         Grouse, Hemlock and Smith Lakes in Desolation Wilderness	6+	Strenuous
·         Desolation Wilderness, Grouse Lake	3.8	Moderate
·         Horsetail Falls & Pyramid Creek	3-11	Easy to Strenuous and Difficult
Rockbound Trail to Maud, Doris Lakes, and Lois Lake, 2014	10-18+ RT	Moderate- Strenuous
·         Rockbound Trail to Maude Lake	10	Strenuous

Peachy Hiker's Table of Contents


Happy Trails!

·         Umpa Lake and Enchanted Pools in Desolation

6.8+

Strenuous

·         Tahoe Rim Trail

165

·         Lyons Creek Trail to Lake Sylvia

9.2

Strenuous

·         Lyons Lake in Desolation Wilderness

10+

Strenuous

·         Twin Lakes Trail to Island Lake in Desolation Wilderness

7.95

Strenuous

·         Lyon Creek Trail and Snow Hazards

9.2

Strenuous

·         Grouse, Hemlock and Smith Lakes in Desolation Wilderness

6+

Strenuous

·         Desolation Wilderness, Grouse Lake

3.8

Moderate

·         Horsetail Falls & Pyramid Creek

3-11

Easy to Strenuous and Difficult

• Rockbound Trail to Maud, Doris Lakes, and Lois Lake, 2014

 10-18+ RT

Moderate- Strenuous

·         Rockbound Trail to Maude Lake

10

Strenuous