Donner's Castle Pass via PCT Snowshoeing

 

Difficulty: Strenuous.  Difficult to follow trail.  Undermelt hazards.  Numerous creek crossings of varying difficulty.  Could be more fun as an overnighter.  Fires are allowed during winter.
Length:  Ours was a 9.3 mile loop.
Directions and details:  Take I-80 to the Boreal exit west of Donner and east of Kingvale.  South of the exit make a left.  Stop at the hotel for a parking permit.  Your regular state park pass does not apply. The hotel has some vending machines with snacks. It is snowplowed in the event of snowy weather and has a nice restroom with vault toilets.  The kids can build snowmen and tabogan there.  Great places for snowball fights, too!  During the regular hiking season, there is an interpretive loop trail.

Taken by Peachy from Castle Pass looking south.

This was my second time out snowshoeing in my new MSRs made for virtually every condition.   You may remember that we each broke one of our trekking poles on our last trip so I had one of each set this time.  I ordered the new ones but they hadn't arrived so "Make do" as grandma used to say.  This time the sun was on our side rather than stormy weather, and I had mapped out a plan for a longer trail.  It seemed like a reasonable day's hike at 1 mile an hour average, expecting about 7+ miles and time for a meal. We used the sno park paid parking last week so we knew the ropes and were able to waste less time and get out on the trail.  (Pay at the hotel as you enter the parking area.  There are vending machines there, too.) Near the trailhead that is down the road in the loop is a vault toilet. Use the trailhead at the billboard sign turning north instead of south at the junction.  I was excited because our last trip was so much fun despite bad bad weather; this day promised to be stellar!

Our first creek crossing was wide and frozen.  We detoured a bit for a safer route. 
(Funny note!  Those are my mismatched poles!)  Those marks in the tree are trail markers.

The snow was sparkling, the weather was crisp but not bone chilling.  The snow was icy but I thought with sun it would soften up through the day.  (Guess again).


This widow maker is about to fall and is right on the trailside.

These photos are for fun and to show you to see what the trail was like:

Unlike the perfect dry powder we had last time, more effort was required to walk on this crunchy  snow and I found myself tempted to take the snowshoes off and just hike in my snow boots.  There were bootprints to follow and not much sinking, and I've done it before!  From the trailhead we made our way easily to the tunnel snown above that goes north under I-80 for the PCT.

You can see the trail to the left.

Once we crossed the highway it took some effort to stay on the trail because no one had been on it this far back  The sports store said lots of people were here yesterday so we expected broken trail all the way. 



There are few markers along the way and the GPS was a frequent help.

We wound through the woods and conquered one undocumented creek crossing after another.

I like those, but in the deep, crusty, unbroken snow there may or may not be a faint look of a trail buried. At the creeks we faced steep banks of one to three feet, the water (sometimes a foot deep) and the other bank would be as much or more of a drop off. 

The water running under the snow made the possibility of the bank breaking
into the creek, taking the hikers with it, an unpleasant thought. 
Here we went downstream to cross.

Troopers that we are, we kept going and with umpteen detours
for "safer" passage, we would leave and refind the trail. 

One of the few PCT markers, and imagine, no bicycles!

After several miles of detouring, it seemed like the GPS predicted the same distance to our destination which was confusing because it continued showing our tracks as progressing right along. 

In so much shade we had to stop and get me some layers, but we were dry and still happily challenged.  No conversation was possible unless we stopped because the crunching of the snow under our snowshoes was so loud we couldn't hear each other!  No kidding!

Finally we reached an intersection of trail junctions and had to choose that all go northerly, just more east to more west.  None was the obviously correct route and GPS wasn't a help at this time. Upward to the most northeastern direction was our choice. My quads, calves and even the tops of my feet were so achy, my usual penchant for going uphill had vanished.  I just wanted to stop and heat water and eat. 

We were finally heading up out of the woods and getting some distant views.

Peachy Hiker taking a rest!

At the top we were on a wide open ridge with breathtaking views all the way around!  We were buffeted by extreme winds that actually took me and another hiker completely off of our feet, in snowshoes, and threw us to the ground - me twice!  First time in my life!

The ski runs to the southeast.

Castle Pass to Castle Peak, and by our shadows you can see the sun is falling in the west.

The GPS showed us on another ridge to the north!  It wouldn't move either so clearly it had lost function.  Now getting later in the day, and being tired, we knew we faced a headlamp snowshoe back to the parking in possibly more unbroken and invisible trail. 

Achy and sore, but invigorated by the fantastic views, we headed downhill to the west southwest.  It was like a freeway.  Snowshoers, a snowmobile, cross country skiers, and hikers had made it so much easier by packing the snow and making the trail clear, plus it was all downhill.  How often do you hear me being glad about going downhill, but I was rapturous! 

Our whole hike totaled 9+ miles (we expected 7) and we did end up using headlamps, but only at the end and not a concern. 

Advisory:
The PCT wound through the woods and if you are experienced at finding your way in snow without anything but a map and compass, this route was untouched and had everything the backcountry offers. 

We had fun crossing creeks and identifying animal prints in the snow. If it were powder I would have been more thrilled!  At the end of the day I had sore muscles and an enormous sense of accomplishment.  Honestly I am not as sore from this hike as the last snow trek.  Our photos are prettier without the stormy grey images we got last time, too.  The views made it tempting to stay on Castle Pass for sunset and if I were familiar with the trail back, I would have.  The GPS failed twice on the trip so I posted our tracks but suggest searching for additional tracks to Castle Pass, PCT, and Peter Grubb Hut. Our map is shown below.  I drew in the places the GPS didn't record.  A handful of people have GPS tracks posted of hikes in this area, but be aware that in the snow, the trail is virtually undetectable in many places.

HAPPY TRAILS and as usual, remember to take plenty of water, snacks and food, layers for warmth and a first aid / safety kit.  I always say take a light source and way to start a fire.

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Sincerely,
Elizabeth Goldstein
CSPF President and fellow supporter

Updated 12-14-12

Loch Leven Lakes- Donner / Tahoe Area, CA

*  If you double click on a photo below you'll be able to view each of the photos enlarged.  At the bottom of the article will be a map, an elevation profile, and a Wikiloc link for GPS tracks.

On this beautiful hike of 7.2 miles, we passed 6 lakes and ponds, each one inviting and remote.  

Difficulty:  Moderate.  Distance is flexible but also farther than beginners usually want to tackle for a day hike.  For backpacking though you do half of that each day, then 3+ miles is an easier distance.  Be prepared for rocks and tree falls though.
Elevation changes:  Ascent 1218; Descent: 1198, no section steep as you will see on the graph below.
Driving Directions:

• Take 160 toward Yuba Gap.  
• In .2 mi. turn right onto Lake Valley Road.  It turns slightly left and becomes Crystal Lake Road. 
• In .2 miles make a slight right toward Lake Valley Road.  Continue for 1 mile.  
• Make a slight left onto Forest Route 19 and drive for 3 miles. 
• Continue onto Power Line for .8 miles.  
• Continue onto Forest Route 19 for .2 miles.  
• Turn left and drive for 1 mile. 

The TH is after Huysinks.  The last 4 miles are dirt and the road conditions change, but on this trip in July 2012 I could have gotten my car there but there are some deep tire ruts and a lot of washboard or potholes. 

Notes:  If you are a backpacker, I highly recommend this popular trail and the lakes.  There is plenty of room and many campsites along the way.  Sure, there are people at the first lake but the further you go, the fewer you'll be likely to see.  For me the last lake was most beautiful and enjoyable.  The first Loch Leven Lake is large and groups were there of young people swimming.  Various backpackers were solo and had separate camps with privacy enough. 

WILDFLOWERS, for those who stop by to see what's blooming in the wilds:

This time of year is full of color and variety.  I love the macro shots like this first one.  Enlarged, you'll see the little residents and scavengers that may appear to be dirt or debris in the field!

We were also treated to a section of trail covered with these beauties.

Our hike started in the shade of brush and willows, when we suddenly stepped out into this sublime meadow.  I'm happy to report we didn't have to break out bug spray to fight off the biters that commonly stalk hikers along moist areas.

Quickly the trail reentered the woods and there were several larger fallen trees to climb over, or in the case above, through.

For the most part the trail is in good condition and easy to follow. but of course, GPS helped us along the Salmon Lake area.  We did some granite crossing and boulder scrambling in that area, all fun and nothing treacherous!

This unnamed grassy lake hid a treasure for me:  my first chance to photograph what I believe was a great blue heron.  You'll have to enlarge this to find it because I zoomed my lens as far as possible taking the photo, and still can barely see the giant bird in the tree (below).

It caught me off guard and flew down into the grasses where I thought I had missed my opportunity but at home on the laptop, there it is hiding.  Another one to enlarge or zoom in on.

So play a little "Where's Waldo?" and find the bird in the above photos.  Help me if you know for sure what type it is.  Good luck.

A bit of adventure struck us here because somehow, talking too much I guess, we lost the trail but took our time on the granite resting and snacking, taking pictures of Salmon Lake and wondering if we needed to go all the way down to the lake or not.  We opted for a bit of cross country in the compass direction of Loch Leven and with a little bushwhacking we were able to reconnect with the official trail. 

As we srolled along and greeted hikers and dogs, Loch Levens first lake presented herself in full color and beauty.  As you can see, a breeze was steady but it sure didn't slow down all the young people swimming!  They were across the lake between islands squealing, laughing, and splashing.  It did nothing to dampen my enjoyment.

 Neither did the various camps set up along the trail.  Our ambition was to get to Upper Loch Leven though so our stay was shorter here at the largest of the lakes.

My vision of what it might be like was good as gold.  No one was there but us, no splashing or tents.  We picnicked and took off our boots for a wade in the pleasantly warm shallow water.  This was a fantastic destination!

Our chosen spot was here at the southwest side of the lake where we found some boulders and a long shallow area perfect for soaking our tired dogs.  Lily had a blast splashing and digging up mud between snacking and finding sticks to be thrown.

Sunset was on our way out, but worth stopping for this shot. This was a fun moderate hike and might be a good start for a new backpacker.  Our 7.2 miles could be shortened and was a round trip total.  No bathrooms. For the day, take a water purifying means, food, sunscreen and bug spray (and your swim trunks)!

Wikiloc  for GPS.  Other tracks are available.

Related Articles:
Grouse Ridge Trails
Survivor Night on Crooked Lakes Trail
Carr Lake Under Snow

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Happy Trails!