Trails in Northern California

Trails in Northern California

Leave No Trace!

Visit desovw.org for more information about Desolation Wilderness. Visit Recreation.gov or call 1- 877-444-6777 to make park reservations. Visit Campfire Permits to get a permit online. More about Leave No Trace principles.

April 30, 2012

American Canyon Trail and Waterfalls

One of several cascades we enjoyed finding, Tarzan vines and all!



Hike Length: 4.3 miles out and back, but there are a variety of options so you can choose up to 18.9 miles one way by hiking to Auburn, or other options that take you down to the river and connect with the Quarry Trail or WST. The trails are marked with mileage signs and trail names at forks.
Difficulty: Easy to strenuous depending on your choices.  Getting to some waterfalls is narrow and steep.
Elevation range of this hike: 891-1822 feet.


 As you can tell from the photo, we had the good luck of nice weather.  The trail has lots of shade and along with the creek, waterfalls and pools, it was a nearly perfect day!

The trail starts out wide and heads downhill, but soon enough it will narrow and occasionally the footing is less secure.    My hiking poles help me balance in the steep areas.  Good shoes help too.  At the first fork, go right, down toward the stream.






Wildflowers were blooming profusely in open sunny areas.

There are several creek crossings even for a short version of the hike but they are equipped with stones you can usually step across.

We sat at the top of this waterfall, in the shade, cooling off from our hike through dense, tall, rather pretty poison oak to get to this spot along the stream.  It involved a little boulder scramble and creek crossing too. We made it with dry feet and hardly any biting bugs!

For the adventurous, there is even a Tarzan vine hanging over the falls
and pool!  I am not saying try it out, but tempting, huh?

Downstream view of a pool from our snack/rest rock at the top of the falls.

Our next challenge was to get from our resting boulder up this stream to another waterfall and pool without wearing waders!  Some of the rocks are slippery, but we made it, more wet from sweat than the creek.

We arrived at this tranquil, inviting waterfall pool, and even more fun was the knowledge that we had a secluded wilderness experience right downhill from a neighborhood of hikers, bicyclists, and equestrians, but got the trails and pools to ourselves.

***The following photos are from Sept. 20, 2012.  Water was so low that I couldn't get a decent shot of American Falls, so settled for a few of the hike and the creek:



My first view of the canyon on this day's hike.

Beware of this evergrown area. 

 A rattler hissed and rattled but I froze.  I couldn't see it or tell where it was.  I finally shot straight up then forward and he missed me.  Stubborn snake didn't just slither into the vines, but hung out in the shade of the berry growth.
Looking for places to experiment with my new camera, I headed down the canyon farther and at this creek crossing found this fella.  You can see how little water was flowing.

Just another pretty bend in the creek with colorful foliage.


Driving directions:  Take Highway 193 east from Cool, California for 5.8 miles. Turn left on Sweetwater.  This is known as the third gate of the gated community.
If you see the sign for the town of Greenwood, turn around. On the day we went here the street sign was missing, so all I can suggest is drive slowly, watch your mileage, and make sure you don't pass the sign for Greenwood.
When you have turned, you will see the small free parking (in spring of 2012) at the trailhead on your right before the gated entry into Auburn Lake Trails Community.

ASRA ~ Auburn State Recreation District
Hikes By Locations
Peachy Hiker's Table of Contents

Updated 7-2013
Edited May 2014

April 26, 2012

Fairy Falls

This moderately easy 5 mile hike is rewarded with beautiful Fairy Falls, with natural pools perfect for swimming and rocks to sun on nearby. 


Miles: 5
Difficulty: Easy-Moderate only due to length and hills, and the area for viewing the large falls.
Elevation changes: 200 feet
Use for equestrians, bicyclists, and leashed dogs.  Nearby camping available.

     The day I chose was hot and I hadn't thought of bringing a swim suit; I regretted it!  If you are going with a group and opt for ice chests, get ones with wheels!  I saw two young men struggling with carrying a full sized ice chest each.  They had to stop frequently to put them down, rest and eventually emptied out some ice to lighten their loads. 


     I walked around a gate to cross this old concrete bridge and took the trail to the right, known as Old Spenceville Road Trail.  I didn't see any signs and had to guess, so keep that turn in mind.  The trail wound lazily through grassy hills lined with pastures occupied by cattle grazing and mooing under a variety of oak trees!


     In April the postcard perfect grasses were dotted with various wildflowers including Brodiaea, Popcorn Flowers, Tufted Poppies, Blue Dicks, Grass Nut, Fairy Lanterns, and glossy Cinqefoils.



The creek wound away from the trail and I hiked following a wide trail/road.  In the heat of the day, sweating profusely, I noticed there wasn't much shade and virtually nowhere to sit for rest but he ground.  The trail turned to the right, crossed a small creek with a gate to pass through, then remains in full sun heading uphill. 


     Near the top was a cattle crossing that looked out of place in an open field, but the trail veered slightly to the left to a fork in the trail at the bottom.  I chose the one signed "Upper Fairy Falls", pictured above.  It is narrower and generally uphill.  Birds called and lizards rustled through the grasses as I approached. I read there are turkeys and pheasants, but none crossed my path.


     Watch for poison oak sprouting along the way.  It was so pretty, rich green with glossy leaves, but the trail to the waterfalls was well-maintained so just be aware of it if you find a place to sit, or go off trail!


     The narrow Upper Fairy Falls Trail joined a wide trail again and made a slight left.  By now I could hear the  falls, so my anticipation for cooling off grew with every step.  The cliffs were guarded by chain link fence so visitors could more safely view and photograph the falls.  In that area the trail is steeper with less stable footing.
     The falls are also know as Dry Creek Falls, Beale Falls, and Shingle Falls.


     I hiked upstream to find a shady place to rest, soak, and snack.  The trail was not maintained, finally left the stream, and returned to the hills through a barbed wire fence.  I found a nice small pool to sit by but for anyone allergic to poison oak, this area was thick with it so if you go earlier, the hike would be more pleasant and a closer, less hazardous spot would be easier to find.  For those sensitive to little black flying devils, take some bug spray and enjoy yourselves more.  Sunscreen too!


     Above, the photograph is of the top of the large falls, a popular swimming hole for groups who lounged in the afternoon shade of the hill.  There is a smaller waterfall below with a couple of pools great for swimming, and families grouped there.
     I returned using the lower wide trail, came back to the fork and retraced my way back to the car which I predictably found covered in a blanket of dirt.  I hiked 5.94 miles because if my upstream trek.


Driving Directions:
  • From Highway 80, go north on Highway 65 into the town of Lincoln, California, and make a right at the stoplight at Highway 193.  
  • Turn left at the next stoplight onto East Street.  
  • After several blocks, make a right where the street ends at a school.  
  • At the next stop, make a left onto McCourtney Road.  
  • Follow it until you come to Camp Far West Reservoir and cross the one lane trestle bridge.  Just after the bridge turn right onto Camp Far West Road.   
  • Soon it becomes a dirt road and goes north away from the lake.  
  • In about 4 miles you come to a T-junction at Spenceville Road and turn right.  
  • Drive about 2 miles to parking and the trailhead at the end of this road. 

* You can find out more about this area and hike in the book Northern California Waterfalls by Ann Marie Brown, The Laws Field Guide to the Sierra Nevada by John Muir Laws, and Wildflowers of Nevada and Placer Counties, California printed by the Redbud Chapter of the California Native Plant Society.

Peachy Hiker's Table of Contents

September 12, 2011

Auburn/Cool, CA "Training Hill" and WST

A new article has been written, with updates for 2016.

An excellent training trail for equestrians, runners and hikers, climbing 1052 feet in about a mile.   Located at Highway 49 at Foresthill Road.



"No Hands Bridge"

At the Confluence there is $10 fee now for parking. It isn't alongside 49 yet.

Elevation Profile graph for perspective about the trail's challenge! 
ASRA reports grade at 16%-30% in 1.2 miles. 

Distance: 2.4 or more out and back miles, or you can make it a longer loop but easier, using other trail options.  Training Hill returning by WST is 4.7 miles.  Links for GPS tracks posted just above included maps at the end of this article.
Difficulty: Very strenuous, steep

Ascent: 1052 feet to climb in .9 miles per my GPS; starts at 607 feet elevation.

That doesn't count the beginning of the hike from Gate 150 to the start of the Training Hill itself.  The greatest reward of this hike is the fitness and is used by runners, equestrians, and hikers for conditioning. There are some views, but you can find better ones with less work! There are no bathrooms or water supplies along the way, although the Quarry Trail across the highway has vault toilets.
 

The American River was especially low that day.

Update: Sept. 8th, 2012 same low water levels.

This is the fork to look for; head toward Cool, to your left, leaving the old road. The trail looks narrow but widens out shortly.  It will traverse to the left until the next fork.
"1.4 miles to the Olmstead Loop".
 The following photos do little justice depicting how steep the trail feels as you ascend the 1,000 feet or so in a .9 mile space!  If you do not turn uphill here, you will be on the Western States Trail also known as Wendell T Robie Trail.  It is a gradual uphill that parallels Highway 49 partway.

It is particularly grueling going up through all this rugged track,

but going down is...just as grueling.  FUN for challenge seekers!

I have met people on the trail who just carry water and are fit enough to barely break a sweat and still converse.  But note there isn't much of any resting place and the ground is covered in those burly stickers and very dusty dirt!  Shady relief comes and goes.  I enjoy the ragged footing and can make use of it like stairs rather than avoiding it for the flatter trail sides


Whenever I have hiked this trail, (September 9th, 2012) I have avoided looking ahead and pushed forward, glancing up only for planning the next few feet of climbing or descending!
If an equestrian comes along, please move aside and let them pass.

As you get to the top, you capture views and it opens out
into a large meadow if you keep going ahead.

 

There are numerous options for your return. 

  1. You can hike out the way you came. If you return on the Training Hill, you can see some pretty views of the Foresthill Bridge and the river canyon.
  2. Follow the Olmstead Loop to Cool, and back down WST.
  3. Take WST also known as Wendall T Robie Trail to your left and make a longer than Training Hill descent but an easier grade and trail.  It will follow along the highway and you do get some road noise.  In spring you get some pretty mini waterfalls and creeks.

 The trail is sometimes quiter narrow, but always visible.

 This is a memorial to a Tevis Cup Rider of days gone by.



The trail is deeply cut by years of use, especially by equestrians.





 In the spring and winter there are creeks and waterfalls to enjoy on the Western States Trail.



This is the American River near the Confluence as seen through the trees, across Highway 49,

 along the Western States Trail (Wendell T Robie Trail).

Map of Training Hill / Western States Trail Loop Option 3:  4.7 miles




Wikiloc has a posted tracks for GPS users out and back:
or the WST loop option and some great springtime photos.

 

The Training Hill out and back option map:




Peachy Hiker's Table of Contents including nearby Georgetown and Coloma.
or
Related Articles:
ASRA ~ Auburn State Recreation District

BLM ~ Bureau of Land Management
Near Auburn, CA
Happy Trails!
updated 9-2012

August 27, 2011

7-2018 updates Grouse, Hemlock & Smith Lakes in Desolation Wilderness




Above is called Chappell Crossing and is located as you approach the trail head. Follow the path to the right before the bridge after filling out your day permit at this trail head and attaching it to your gear. The trail to the Desolation Wilderness lakes starts at the posting board heading into the meadows away from Wrights Lake.



Hike Length: 6+ miles; I inevitably find I have done 7 round trip, out and back trail.
Difficulty and Grade: Strenuous.  (Like doing a stair stepper all day!  Mostly steep and rocky tread, some marshy areas, creek crossing, spaces of regular forest floor.)  You do get a variety of trail tread and shade/sun. Well maintained. Out and back trail.  Steep and boulder scrambling up to Smith Lake. 
Elevation: 6967.4 to 8840.5;  if you bushwhack up to the ridge over Smith, is 2123 feet and with descent totals 4246.
Located: in Desolation Wilderness, so a permit can be filled out at the trail head for day hikes but online or at Pacific Ranger Station for backpacking.  No campfires allowed.  (Day permits are free and are to assist the park with information about park use for funding and grants, knowing how much use areas are getting, and in the rare event someone doesn't make it back, finding information from their permit could be helpful in locating them.)

Directions:  
Take Highway 50  and turn north on Ice House Road.  Follow the signs to Wrights Lake and park at the Twin Lakes Trail head. 
OR  (a better drive if you ask me):

Take the Wrights Lake Road north (between the 36 mile tract and the 39 mile tract) in the vicinity of Kyburz off Highway 50 and follow the signs to Twin Lakes Trail head.  

The trail begins heading through a moist colorful meadow, with a wide fairly flat trail.  Even with strong bug repellent here, you are a target for varieties of black biting flying torpedoes.  Early on you will see a sign at a Y, go to the right.  Later you will come across two more signs to keep you on track.  One is the Desolation Wilderness entry point and the other sign is to Grouse Lake.  At that sign (just an engraved post) keep to the right.
As you can see, the lilies are bright bursts of color amoung the corn lilies and other wildflowers, as tall as eye level, and growing by the acre.  I did not edit the color on this shot!

Grouse Lake Trail ascends very aggressively and is not for the faint of heart!  
It is quite vigorous and requires good footing as well.  
Hiking poles help me climb these sections.
There is a tree fall (in 2018) that you hunch down a bit to get under. 
Take water because you will sweat for this prize!  Please wear reliable shoes and check out these real photos if in doubt that it matters Shoes with Soles.
***I often find people ready to quit with exhaustion and uncertainty at the runoff crossing where the trail veers to your left.  Don't give up here!  You don't have to get your feet wet.  There are stable rocks to step on, and just up around the bend, a very very short jaunt, is the first lake, Grouse Lake.
To get to the granite beside the lake, use the small user path to the right.

Grouse Lake is in a granite bowl and invites swimmers on hot days.  I've seen fishermen who throw back what they catch.  Take your fishing license and check current Desolation regulations.  One side of the lake is rocky with nice boulders to bake on and the other side is marshy and buggy.

As I looked back on my way from Grouse to Hemlock Lakes, this excellent view took me by surprise.  Many more views do the same as you hike higher, believe me!
Here is Hemlock Lake.  It is small but has some 
nice sandy areas and rocks also to 
spread out a picnic.  The grassy side and the shade 
are sometimes offerings for bugs more than humans!  
The trail becomes briefly obscure so GPS can help but  

if you look around you should find the recognized trail using 
other clues without too much trouble. Head toward that peak. *
This was a fun shot of Hemlock because the water is beautifully clear as you can see.  The peak in the background is along toward our next destination, Smith Lake.  
 The trail is nice woodsy track from Hemlock Lake 
until you reach the next big ascent. 

Be prepared to climb. 

This is the trail heading up to Smith Lake.  Most of it is just this way.  I scrambled up the boulders according to my GPS's location of the forest's recognized trail, but found on the way down, there is a mostly clear trail that runs fairly parallel to the runoff from the Smith Lake dam.  It traverses mildly and heads downward more directly, without bushwhacking, and gets you on a more level easy trail pretty quickly.
These were fading and few, but a lovely sight! 
Little gems scattered all around the trails.
This is beyond the icing on the cake. (There is less snow in July 2018, and none was on the trail.) The area this side of the lake has forest and shade, and the footing is easier.  As you can see, across the lake is uninviting for hiking, beautiful even breathtaking!  Snow remains along the granite side but less of it.  It is possible to hike all the way around the lake.
  • I scrambled up the rocks to see over Smith Lake for that previous photo showing the whole basin, but the bonus was the completely unobstructed view of everywhere else!  I enjoy a good boulder scramble and this was dizzying standing on the next highest boulder I could climb for photos.  People also hike to the ridge over Smith and across the saddle over to Lyons Lake and make it a loop with Lyons Creek Trail. Only try it if you are skilled and energetic.  The climb down this way is steep and can be visually intimidating, or even frightening, to some.


    **** I found blog note that explains clearly why it is unwise to follow cairns (rock towers or stacks). From an excellent hiking resource, this account describes just that experience : 
    "...trail led right up to the edge of a creek, and I thought I might need to cross it. But there did seem to be a trail, although not as distinct as the trail leading up to it, heading directly up. I went that way, and encountered a difficult climb with no clear trail, but cairns set out all over the place that made me think I was going the right way." 
    and later, 
    "There are cairns every which way. In 2006, I started climbing too quickly straight up to the west, rather than making a more gradual ascent to the southwest. Following cairns that shouldn't have been left there, I often found myself backing up to find an easier route--which followed other cairns. When I made my return, I added more cairns to the easier route, and knocked away some that had led me to dead ends." 
    taken from NorCal Explorer blog.  
    My daughter and I had that same experience looking for Enchanted Pools and worried a little and wasted time following cairns.  Use of a compass and map would have served us much better.  The cairns died out and we bushwhacked to cross the creek we knew we had to cross to get to our destination.

    Cairns are not set up by the forestry, but hikers who are finding their  way back to stashed gear, or goofing off.  They are not reliable, and may intentionally get a person completely lost.  

    *If you lose sight of the trail:

    • Use clues by looking ahead, from a higher point if possible.  
    • Look for fallen trees cut away from the trail, and rocks and branches that are blocking what looks like a possible trail.  
    • Keep looking in the general direction the trail should go.  
    • The forestry tries to keep the vegetation off of the trail to keep it visible on recognized trails.
    • Use your map to locate peaks or visible landmarks and identify the compass direction you should be headed.  
    • Look for the place you are and how to intercept the trail (like heading to a certain side of a lake).  


    For similar hikes:
    Desolation Wilderness
    2015-07
    10+ miles
    Strenuous
    2014-08
    30 miles
    Moderate to Strenuous/Difficult
    2014-07
    18 miles
    Moderate-Difficult
    2014-06
    12+ miles
    Moderate to Strenuous
    2013-06
    13+ miles
    Moderate to Strenuous
    2012-09
    Umpa Lake and; Enchanted Pools
    8+ miles
    Cross country ~ Moderate
    2012-08
    Horsetail Falls via Pyramid Creek TH
    Aprox.  10 miles to lakes at the top of the falls
    "Difficult, and potentially dangerous" miles
    2012-07
    10 miles
    Moderate
    2012-07
    8 miles
    Moderate-Strenuous
    2012-06
    Lyons Lake via Lyons Creek Trail
    10+ miles
    Strenuous
    2012-08
    9.2 miles
    Moderate
    2012-06
    6+ miles
    Strenuous
    2011-07
    Lyons Creek Trail with melting snow
    9+ miles
    Moderate

    2010-09 We hiked 12 days.
    167 total
    Moderate to Strenuous

    Peachyhiker's Table of Contents

    Happy Trails!
    Updated links 06-2016
    Updated trail conditions, made grammar and spelling corrections, changed a font, added signage details 07-2018